How to Make a Puzzle with Your Cricut Machine: A DIY Guide

1) Choose Your Puzzle Method

Method A: Sturdy chipboard/wood puzzle (best “wow” factor)

Choose this if you have a Cricut Maker (Maker series) and want a puzzle that feels like a real
keepsakethicker pieces, nicer handling, and the kind of gift people actually keep instead of “accidentally”
leaving at your house.

• Best for: Photo gifts, family puzzles, classroom name puzzles, party favors
• Materials: Cricut 2mm chipboard (or basswood for a wooden version)
• Blade: Knife Blade (longer cuts, multiple passesyour Cricut will take its sweet time)

Method B: Print Then Cut puzzle (fast, precise, more machines can do it)

Choose this if you want the easiest alignment for a printed photo or artwork and you’re okay with a thinner
puzzle. This method can work on more machines because it typically uses Fine-Point/Deep-Point blades and thinner
backers like kraft board, poster board, or even a cereal box.

• Best for: Party games, quick gifts, kid activities, prototypes
• Materials: Printable sticker paper/vinyl + thin backing
• Blade: Fine-Point or Deep-Point (depending on thickness)

Not sure which to pick? If you’re making a puzzle that will be handled a lot (kids, classrooms, family game
night), Method A is worth the extra time. If you want “pretty and quick,” Method B is your new best friend.

2) Supplies and Materials Checklist

Core tools (both methods)

• Cricut machine (Maker series for Knife Blade; Explore/Maker/Joy Xtra/Venture for Print Then Cut)
• Cricut Design Space (desktop or mobile, but desktop is easier for fiddly setup)
• Inkjet printer (for photo/art puzzles)
• Brayer or scraper tool (think: “tiny rolling pin for crafts”)
• Painter’s tape or masking tape (for thick cuts and preventing shift)
• Weeding tool / spatula (for lifting pieces without bending them)

Materials (pick based on your method)

• Method A (sturdy): Cricut Heavy Chipboard (2.0 mm), StrongGrip mat (purple),
  Knife Blade (Maker series only)
• Method A (wood option): Basswood (commonly 1/16″) + StrongGrip mat + Knife Blade
• Method B (Print Then Cut): Printable sticker paper or printable vinyl + thin backing
  (kraft board, poster board, cereal box cardboard)

Adhesives & finishing (highly recommended)

• Mod Podge (great for bonding and sealing)
• Spray adhesive (fast bonding for large prints; use in a ventilated area)
• Clear acrylic sealer (optional protective topcoat)

Safety note (especially if kids will use the puzzle): small pieces can be a choking hazard, and fresh-cut
chipboard/wood edges can be pokey. If the puzzle is for young kids, make fewer, larger pieces and sand edges
lightly before sealing.

3) Designing Your Puzzle in Cricut Design Space

Step 1: Pick (or build) a puzzle template

The easiest route is a puzzle SVG templatea rectangle filled with jigsaw cut lines. You can
also create your own by drawing curvy “tabs” and slicing them into a base shape, but let’s not pretend we all
woke up craving geometry.

• Beginner-friendly tip: Choose a template with larger pieces for your first attempt.
• Pro tip: Avoid ultra-intricate pieces on thick materialsKnife Blade likes bold, simple lines.

Step 2: Add your image (photo/art) and size everything

Import your photo/artwork and place it behind the puzzle template. Decide your finished puzzle size first
(common sizes are 5″×7″, 8″×10″, or 8.5″×11″). Larger puzzles are easier to assemble and more forgiving for
cutting, but they take longer and use more material.

Step 3: Decide how the image gets onto the puzzle

You have three popular options:

1. Printable sticker paper/vinyl: Print your design, stick it onto your backing, then cut the
   puzzle shape.
2. Regular printed paper + glue/seal: Print on photo paper, adhere with Mod Podge or spray
   adhesive, then seal.
3. “Plain” puzzles: Skip photos and cut puzzles from chipboard/wood as name/letter/shape puzzles.

Step 4: Keep pieces usable

A puzzle that’s too hard becomes “decor that lives in a drawer.” A few simple design rules prevent that:

• For kids: 6–20 large pieces, chunky tabs, high-contrast image.
• For adults: 24–80 pieces, varied piece shapes, detailed image.
• For gifts: Add a hidden message on the back (more on that later) for extra “aww.”

4) Method A: Thick Chipboard Puzzle (Cricut Maker + Knife Blade)

This is the method for a sturdy, satisfying puzzle. It’s also the method where your Cricut quietly asks for
patience and snacks because Knife Blade projects take time.

A. Prep your machine and mat (do this or regret it later)

1. Use a StrongGrip mat and press the chipboard down firmly. A brayer helps it bond evenly.
2. Tape all four edges of the chipboard to the mat. This prevents shifting during multiple passes.
3. Move the white star wheels all the way to the right on your Maker. If you don’t, they can leave
   track marks on your material.
4. Make sure no part of your material goes under the rubber rollers (that can cause jams or errors).

B. Set up the cut in Design Space

1. In Design Space, set your puzzle cut layer to “Cricut Chipboard (2.0mm)” (or the closest match).
2. When prompted, insert the Knife Blade into Clamp B.
3. If Design Space requests Knife Blade calibration (especially if it’s new), do it. It’s quick and helps accuracy.

C. Cut (and don’t unload too early)

Knife Blade cuts are typically multi-pass. That’s normal. The machine will do several passes, and
it can take a while depending on size and detail. This is the perfect moment to do something productivelike
staring at it and whispering encouragement.

• Check the cut before unloading the mat. If pieces are still connected, you can often add another pass
  (Design Space typically prompts you, or you can continue cutting while the mat is still loaded).
• If your edges look rough, consider replacing the blade before doing the “final version” puzzle.

D. Add the photo layer (two smart approaches)

Approach 1: Print first, adhere to chipboard, then cut

1. Print your image on printable vinyl or sticker paper (or regular paper).
2. Let the ink dry fully before handling.
3. Adhere the print to chipboard using Mod Podge or spray adhesive, smoothing with a brayer/scraper.
4. Place the adhered sheet on the mat and cut your puzzle template.

Why it works: You get a clean image surface and a sturdy backing. The main challenge is alignment
use the mat grid and Design Space mat preview to line up the cut area where your image sits.

Approach 2: Cut a chipboard “frame” + image board separately

Some makers cut a solid rectangle frame/border from chipboard and a second board with the photo adhered, then keep
the finished puzzle inside the frame like a tray. This looks polished and helps puzzle pieces stay together
(because puzzles love to migrate under couches).

E. Optional: Make a wooden puzzle with basswood

If you want a “heirloom” vibe, use basswood. Keep your cut lines at least 1/4 inch from the wood edge
and tape down all edges. Basswood cuts are sensitive to shifting and blade stress, so clean prep matters a lot.

5) Method B: Print Then Cut Puzzle (Precise, Quicker, More Machines)

Print Then Cut is the “I want this to line up perfectly” option. Your Cricut reads registration marks around the
printed page and cuts where it shouldideal for photo puzzles on thinner materials.

A. Calibrate Print Then Cut (seriouslydo it once, thank yourself forever)

If you’ve never calibrated (or your cuts are slightly off), go into Design Space settings and run Print Then Cut
calibration. This is especially helpful for puzzles, where a tiny shift can turn a “jigsaw” into “abstract art.”

B. Build your Print Then Cut file

1. Place your image on the canvas and size it to your desired puzzle dimensions.
2. Place the puzzle cut lines over the image.
3. Make sure the puzzle cut lines are set to Cut and the image is set to Print.
   Attach if needed so they stay aligned.
4. Click Make It, choose your printer, and print.

C. Let ink dry, then cut

This is the craft version of “don’t touch wet paint.” Let the printed sheet dry before cutting, especially if you
printed on printable vinyl or glossy sticker paper. Smears happen fast and ruin vibes faster.

D. Add a thin backing (optional but recommended)

For a sturdier Print Then Cut puzzle, many makers stick the printed sheet onto a thin backing like a cereal box,
kraft board, or poster board. Keep it thin enough for your blade/machine. Burnish well to avoid bubbles, and
ensure everything stays flatPrint Then Cut is not a fan of warping.

E. Cut settings tips

• Too many fibers/tears? Try a slightly higher pressure setting or a new blade.
• Cutting through backing unevenly? Stronger mat adhesion + tape edges can help.
• Sensor can’t read marks? Reduce glare (avoid shiny laminate during calibration; adjust lighting).

6) Finishing and Sealing (So Your Puzzle Doesn’t Instantly Look “Well-Loved”)

A. Seal the surface for durability

If you used paper (not vinyl), sealing helps prevent scuffs and fingerprints. Two popular sealing strategies:

• Mod Podge topcoat: Apply thin, even coats. Let dry thoroughly between coats. Great for a classic
  handmade look.
• Clear acrylic spray: Quick protective coatinguse light coats, steady motion, and good ventilation.

B. Smooth edges (especially for chipboard/wood)

Lightly sand rough edges with fine sandpaper. Don’t overdo itjust enough to remove fuzz and make pieces feel
nicer in hand.

C. Store it like a pro

• Use a small box, zip bag, or envelope (bonus points for labeling it “Do Not Lose The Edge Pieces”).
• Keep it flat so pieces don’t warp over time.
• If it’s a gift, include a photo reference card so the puzzler isn’t guessing what “blue blob” becomes.

7) Troubleshooting: Common Cricut Puzzle Problems (and Fixes)

Problem: The chipboard shifts mid-cut

• Fix: Use a StrongGrip mat, brayer it down, and tape all four edges. Don’t skip the tape.

Problem: The Knife Blade leaves rough edges

• Fix: Replace the blade if it’s worn, simplify your design, and test-cut a small section first.

Problem: The cut didn’t go all the way through

• Fix: Check before unloading. If it’s still connected, add another pass while the mat is still loaded.

Problem: Print Then Cut is cutting “close, but not correct”

• Fix: Run Print Then Cut calibration, ensure the sheet is placed exactly as shown on the mat preview,
  and avoid glossy glare during sensor reading.

Problem: My printable image smudged

• Fix: Let ink dry longer, use printer settings appropriate for your paper type, and avoid touching the print surface.

Problem: My pieces don’t fit nicely back into the frame

• Fix: If you’re gluing a frame/tray, keep glue away from the inner edge and ensure alignment is exact.
  Even small glue bumps can block puzzle pieces from laying flat.

8) Creative Puzzle Ideas (Because You’re Not Limited to “A Photo on a Rectangle”)

1) The “hidden message” puzzle

Put a secret message on the back: “Will you be my bridesmaid?” or “Check the freezer, detective.” It turns a puzzle
into a mini eventlike confetti, but with more table space.

2) Kids’ name or alphabet puzzle

Cut chunky letters from chipboard/wood and make it a matching tray puzzle. Great for classrooms, and also great
for teaching tiny humans that letters are a thing (and not just stickers on water bottles).

3) Vacation or milestone puzzle gift

Make a puzzle from a family trip photo, graduation pic, or pet portrait. If you want extra points, use a
high-contrast image so it’s fun to assemble and not 400 pieces of “beige sand.”

4) Party game puzzle

Use Print Then Cut to make quick puzzles as table activities. Add a time challenge: first person to finish wins
the last cupcake. (Yes, cupcakes are a currency.)

9) Maker Experiences & Lessons Learned (Extra 500+ Words)

If you search for Cricut puzzle stories, you’ll notice a pattern: everyone starts confident, then the machine
begins its multi-pass Knife Blade routine, and suddenly people become philosophers. “Is it supposed to take this
long?” “Have I always been this impatient?” “Should I name my Cricut since we’re spending so much time together?”
The good news is that most of the “hard parts” of puzzle-making are predictable, and you can dodge them with a
little prepand a little humility.

The most common experience makers share is that chipboard puzzles are not a rush job. Knife Blade
projects can run many passes, and the larger the puzzle (or the more intricate the piece shapes), the more time
it takes. People often learn the “computer sleep mode lesson” once: the cut is halfway done, the laptop decides
it’s nap time, and suddenly you’re bargaining with technology like it’s a cranky houseplant. The fix is simple:
keep your device awake, and treat the cutting phase like bakingopening the oven door constantly won’t help.

Another frequent lesson: mat prep is 80% of success. Makers who skip taping, brayering, or proper
mat choice tend to get shifting, rough edges, or incomplete cuts. And the worst part is that the failure feels
personallike your chipboard is being dramatic on purpose. In reality, it’s physics: thick materials resist
movement, Knife Blade applies more pressure, and if the chipboard isn’t secured like it owes you money, it can
creep during long cuts. Once people tape all four edges and press the material down firmly, their success rate
jumps fast.

When it comes to photo puzzles, the most shared “I wish I knew” moment is about ink and sealing.
Printable vinyl and sticker papers look gorgeous, but inkjet ink can smear if handled too soonespecially on
glossy surfaces. Makers who get crisp results usually print, walk away for a bit, and then come back to cut or
laminate. Those who don’t… end up with fingerprints memorialized forever in the sky area of their family photo.
If you want a puzzle that survives real lifesnacks, kid hands, enthusiastic assemblysealing becomes a
game-changer. A thin Mod Podge topcoat or a light clear spray can protect the print and reduce scuffs.

People also talk a lot about piece size and image choice. A puzzle made from a high-detail photo
(faces, buildings, colorful patterns) is usually fun. A puzzle made from a minimalist beige wall? That’s not a
puzzle; that’s an endurance sport. Makers who’ve done a few puzzles often choose images with clear color blocks,
strong contrast, and recognizable focal points. If the puzzle is for kids, they tend to go bigger with pieces and
simpler with the picturethink bold shapes, pets, cartoon-style art, or a photo with one main subject.

Finally, a surprising “pro-level” experience many crafters mention is that puzzles are an amazing format for
events and storytelling. A hidden message on the back, a scavenger-hunt clue inside the puzzle
box, or a proposal/bridesmaid invite puzzle turns your craft into a moment. It’s not just “here’s a thing I made,”
it’s “here’s a tiny adventure.” If you want to make your puzzle feel extra special, include a small reference
print of the completed image, add a labeled box, and write a short note about why you chose that picture. The
puzzle becomes a keepsake instead of a one-time activityand that’s the kind of DIY that actually sticks.